To climb your best you've got to find inspiration, my inspiration can be found in the sick beats of Chuckford's Guitar...
Live and Create by ssmchuckb
Chuckford the Great
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Sunday, September 25, 2011
Monday, September 19, 2011
Standing Two Feet Below Your Belayer
Meat By-Product a 5.10a on slippery quiartzite. This had been my project for quite some time. Its a series of slightly over-hung finger locks with its tricky crux at the bottom. Just my style. I sent it a few weeks back and it became one of my favorites. On Saturday we decided to hit up Meat Wall again. I was able to use Meat By-Product as my warm up and encouraged Wil to climb it too. Feeling bold and amped from my project becoming my warm up I decided to try the line right next to it, Piece of Meat 5.11b.
I racked up and Wil clipped in. Lookin up from the groud and reading the light beta from the book I decided to bring nothing bigger than a #1 Camalot. Psyched and ready to go I chalked up and gave it a go. The bottom moves were big but fun, hard to find, but solid if you locked in well. about 25ft up you hit a crack with your left fingers that is one knuckle deep and two fingers tall. Leaning slightly to the left you have a right hand that is too big to get into for a jam, but way too huge for finger anything. This is where the slippery Quartzite come into play. Feeling sketched out only 5 ft above my last piece and my right hand is not feeling solid in any sense of the word I place a #4 TCU and take. For a first burn this went well.
Shaking out and chalking up I rest. I jam my right hand back into the small slippery crack and get my fingers back into the lock. Its a big pull from there to a right hand. Again, another big move to a small awkward horn with the left. Reseting my right hand to slopper with a crimp on the back I am able to bring my right foot up to match my hand. With the heel hook and hands set I pull up. 7 ft above my last piece Quartzite strikes again. My heel slips and my hands go with it.
Mid air I hear it, the high tension ping that only comes when a piece pulls from the wall.... Still mid air I know what it means. My mind flashes to the uneven sloped ground with softball sized rocks skattered about. But when I am able to bring things back into focus I see my feet, on the ground, my knees shaking, and my hands holding tightly to my figure 8. "I decked, I am on the ground, Im hurt." These are the only thoughts I can seem to process. These thoughts are abruptly disrupted by Wil's body smacking into my head. He's hanging 2ft above me and an the reality is that I am standing on the ground staring at my feet wondering why they aren't dangling...and with a queezy laugh told Wil to lower back down so I could thank him.
pc
I racked up and Wil clipped in. Lookin up from the groud and reading the light beta from the book I decided to bring nothing bigger than a #1 Camalot. Psyched and ready to go I chalked up and gave it a go. The bottom moves were big but fun, hard to find, but solid if you locked in well. about 25ft up you hit a crack with your left fingers that is one knuckle deep and two fingers tall. Leaning slightly to the left you have a right hand that is too big to get into for a jam, but way too huge for finger anything. This is where the slippery Quartzite come into play. Feeling sketched out only 5 ft above my last piece and my right hand is not feeling solid in any sense of the word I place a #4 TCU and take. For a first burn this went well.
Shaking out and chalking up I rest. I jam my right hand back into the small slippery crack and get my fingers back into the lock. Its a big pull from there to a right hand. Again, another big move to a small awkward horn with the left. Reseting my right hand to slopper with a crimp on the back I am able to bring my right foot up to match my hand. With the heel hook and hands set I pull up. 7 ft above my last piece Quartzite strikes again. My heel slips and my hands go with it.
Mid air I hear it, the high tension ping that only comes when a piece pulls from the wall.... Still mid air I know what it means. My mind flashes to the uneven sloped ground with softball sized rocks skattered about. But when I am able to bring things back into focus I see my feet, on the ground, my knees shaking, and my hands holding tightly to my figure 8. "I decked, I am on the ground, Im hurt." These are the only thoughts I can seem to process. These thoughts are abruptly disrupted by Wil's body smacking into my head. He's hanging 2ft above me and an the reality is that I am standing on the ground staring at my feet wondering why they aren't dangling...and with a queezy laugh told Wil to lower back down so I could thank him.
pc
Sunday, September 18, 2011
The crew spent some time at the Puffer Lake recreation area just east of Beaver, Utah last weekend, setting up First Ascents and exploring the climbing potential in this area.
Megan and the Roxinator smiling after a succesful orienteering nightmare back to the cabin.
Peter with the fist pump after his first ascent of "Frontal Lobe" 10d aptly named for his stream of 'reactions' after pulling a 200lb block off the route!
This is a picture of Mike Attempting the second ascent of "22 gun salute" 11b, under the watchful and helpful care of Peter.
Megan and the Roxinator smiling after a succesful orienteering nightmare back to the cabin.
Peter with the fist pump after his first ascent of "Frontal Lobe" 10d aptly named for his stream of 'reactions' after pulling a 200lb block off the route!
Thursday, September 15, 2011
Words of Wisdom
from Michael Bangerter....
this is the first of many shorts meant to touch and inspire, Thanks Mike
New Project 2 from wilsonhansen on Vimeo.
New Project 2 from wilsonhansen on Vimeo.
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